Italy :)

See bottom of  the post for photos from ITALIA!! it was everything it was promised to be and more! I stayed in Empoli with Ylenia, Giulia’s (my flatmate) good friend from home.  The first day was Giulia’s graduation from the University of Pisa.  Graduations are quite different in Italy:  friends and family gather to hear the student defend their dissertation in front of their thesis advisor and a panel of professors.  This panel deliberates, then the candidate and family are called back into the room for the graduating grade to be announced.  Giulia received a 110 cum laude- the highest possible mark-and she deserves it!  The laurel crown is traditionally given to graduates as a mark of academic achievement.  After a champagne toast and photos, Giulia’s friends and I walked down the street to the famous leaning tower, battistero (for baptisms), and cathedral.  SO COOL for me, totally ordinary for all of them! We had lunch in a great pizzeria, and the owners brought out a nutella-mascarpone dessert pizza to celebrate our graduate J Later that night, we had a celebratory dinner with the whole family at ’Rifugio’ complete with a spread of starters, a 1^st seafood dish, a 2^nd pasta dish, main course (meat and fish), and dessert.  Giulia has a wonderful family and an amazing group of friends..it was so neat to meet them all!

I was so fortunate to have Giulia and Ylenia showing me the Tuscany region over the next week.  They were the best hostesses, making sure I tried everything ‘typical’ that Tuscany had to offer. Being with them made the Italian experience so much richer than I could have ever experienced as a tourist.  We visited the most famous sites, but they also took me to lesser known secrets (like the pastry shop that opens at 3 AM to start baking for the next morning…if you knock on the backdoor you can sneak in for fresh pastries-still hot!)   I got a glimpse of the Italian social life:  aperativos (drinks and a spread of food- really cheap and great to meet up with friends before going out!), 3 surprise parties to celebrate Giulia, and an unforgettable night at Jump Rock club.  I met two truly amazing Italian families, who welcomed me with kisses and smiles, and always the best and biggest portions of delicious food! Ylenia and Giulia took me to visit Vinci (the birthplace of Leonardo di Vinci) and Artimino to see the Hunting Lodge of the Medici family (also known as the 100 chimneys villa).  I spent two unforgettable days in Florence, the highlights being the Duomo, Uffizi Art Museum, Palazzo Vecchio, and Punto Vecchio.  I hiked up to Piazzale Michelangelo for a panoramic view of the city, which we returned to at night later in the week for a champagne toast for Giulia- even more stunning with all the lights! On our last full day, we went to Siena in the morning where I entered the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta:  the highlight of my trip! Walking in stole my breathe away- I have never seen anything so magnificent!  The front face is so ornate, made of green, white and pink marble (common to the Tuscany area) that continues on the inside.  The floor was divided into beautiful marble mosaics depicting biblical scenes and characters.  There was so much to see-paintings, alters, statues, adjacent rooms, gold and silver ornaments- each of which were masterpieces of art and architecture alone.  My mouth was hanging wideee open the whole time I was inside!  We next went to the Piazza where the famous Palio horserace is held, and enjoyed a siesta in the sunshine.  We left Siena and drove to San Gimignano-a medieval town with lots of towers and little shops, which had the most stunning countryside surroundings (the drive to and fro was beautiful!)  On Thursday the girls showed me around Empoli- the Thursday market and central square before sharing one last gelato (which was my favorite of the week!) and catching our plane back to Edinburgh.

So that’s the abridged version- nothing to the 27 pages in my journal- but nonetheless some of the highlights.  We had 7 days of my idea of perfect weather-70 and sunny- uncommonly warm for October, even in Italy.  Of course, I can’t conclude this post without elaborating just a bit on my culinary experience in the food capital of the world.  My appetite finally met its match, and the score stands Italy-1, Metabolism-0, as I’ve returned home 4 kilos heavier than I left.  Italians do pizza, pasta/risotto, and gelato arguably better than anyone in the world. But other highlights for me (although the aforementioned can’t be understated in their excellence) were tapliata (tender meat left rare in the middle but seared on the outside), octopus salad, roasted chestnuts and chesnut bread, Porcini mushrooms, new olive oil (so green!), ricciarelli (biscuits), and cheese (burrata and stracchino in particular).  The hot chocolate was rich and thick and without a doubt the best I have ever had in my life. 

I spent Friday morning unpacking, only to repack for the Rotary District 1020 Conference in Glascow Friday through Sunday.  Friday night, was a great night of fellowship with the other scholars and Rotarians.  We had a welcome reception, followed by a delicious dinner and rounded off the evening with two brass and pipe bands.  On Saturday, we listened to a number of speakers including entrepreneur Tony Banks and Naoko Kurachi, a past Ambassadorial Scholar and QMU graduate (from my program!). We learned about Rotary of Britain and Ireland’s newest partnership with the Stroke Association.   I went to Catriona’s (Jackie and Ken’s daughter) house for lunch Saturday afternoon. We had a delicious, formal dinner Saturday night, followed by a big Ceilidh with Kilter (a GREAT band)!!  Sunday, a number of the ambassadorial scholars were interviewed followed by more presentations including key notes speaker Pat Kane and Geoff Mackey- a tremendously entertaining public speaker- to round off the conference.  The weekend was full of laughs and inspiration, great conversations and meeting new people.  I’m excited about Rotary, excited about all they are doing in the UK and globally, and so appreciative for the opportunity and experience of this year that they are providing!   

I have a very long week ahead, as I’ve just spent my ‘reading week’ away from classes doing everything but…reading. But I’ve ‘caught the bug’, Italy was such an amazing experience that I’m already looking for the next adventure.  I have two huge assessments due for my first two classes, which finished right before reading week (reading week also should have included some writing).  I have two new classes beginning on Monday- Research Global Health and Social Development, Policy and Practice.  For some reason, I’m not nearly as worried about getting my assignments done as I should be..I’m still wrapped up in my Italian dream J I speak at the Rotary Club of Musselburgh tomorrow night and then have an ‘International Night’ with Rotary in Portobello on Halloween!  Time is flying too quickly..is November really just around the corner?!?

Giulia and her brother, Filipo

Our graduate and family!

Super-tourist

Hunting Villa of Medici family with 100 chimneys!



With Giulia at her suprise pizza dinner and special cake!



Duomo in Florence

Palazzo Vecchio..we spent 2+ hours inside! Amazing..



Ponte Vecchio

Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo by day...

...and by night!

Toast to Giulia!

Enjoying the Sunshine in Piazza del Campo, home of the Palio race

Piazza del Campo with Ylenia
 

Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta in Siena



One of the mosaic scenes on the floor inside Siena cathedral

Two Months!

First time voting via Absentee Ballot!

Today marks TWO MONTHS in Edinburgh!!  School is keeping me very busy, but I’m continuing to enjoy my classes, professors, and classmates. I realized mid-week that I’m starting to settle into a routine, but that with that I have lost the active exploration of a new city.  So I’m rebalancing, allotting less time for academics and more time for Edinburgh, and this began with a visit to the Bongo Club.  Bongo Club is a great pub about a 10 minute walk from my flat that holds weekly ceilidhs- a traditional Scottish dance done in a large group, sets of couples, or with a partner.  It always involves live music, an accordion and fiddle are the bare minimum, and a caller who names the dances and instructs the steps.  I think my choice adjectives for the ceilidh are as follows:  aggressive, chivalrous, high-energy and VERY fun.  I woke up whiplashed from some intense spinning, but it’s a small price I am more than willing to pay.

I’ve been trying to not repeat any restaurants or pubs- because there are so many to try! Nonetheless, Finnegan’s Wake has become a flat favorite pub, with great live music 7 days a week.  This past weekend they had a particularly great band:  Absent Friends.  I've (unsuccessfully) tried to attach a video but I will consult a techy friend on how to do this! My Sunday spot and guilty North American pleasure is called The Peartree, a pub that shows all the NFL games live and has Blue Moon on tap. Now if my team could start playing a little better….



Hillwalking and Storytelling!

Late last night I got back from a weekend in the Highlands with Jackie and Ken, their daughter Catriona and her husband Neil, their 4 children Mia, Alister, Nina, and Talia, and friend Dee and her daughter Katie.  Jackie and Ken were kind enough to invite Caitlin up as well.  We said to each other many times how wonderful it was to be surrounded by a big family and energetic children (18 months to 9 years old). We did some great hill walking to the Linn of Dee on Saturday, and to ‘Airplane Hill’ just behind the cottage on Sunday (so named for the famous airplane tree which is piloted by the grandchildren- see picture).  Neil tells the kids great stories on the walks, the favorite being Lord of the Rings, and at the top they all get a ‘top of hill treat’ (which I really looked forward to..shh!) We watched the Slipper and the Rose (like Cinderella), rode on Papa Ken’s 1949 Grey Ferguson,  spent hours upon hours making friendship bracelets, and tasted Catriona’s famous Sticky Toffee Date Cake with Lemon Butter Icing (I would have died a happy lady if it were my last bite).  It was such a nice weekend and really great to get to meet more members of Jackie and Ken’s family!

Highland Friends!

Catriona and Alister on the 1949 Ferguson

 

Mia, Ali, and Nina on Airplane Tree (worthy of note is the luggage rack)

I leave on Thursday for a week in Italy! My flatmate Giulia is graduating on Friday, and before receiving her diploma she must defend her thesis in front of her advisors, friends and family- talk about pressure! She is super nervous, but I have no doubt that she will pass with flying colors and I cannot wait to celebrate ALL WEEK with her!  Her and Ylena are going to show me all around Tuscany- we talked about day trips to Siena and Pisa.  I’ll be sure to post when I return home!

Scottish Tidbit:  Lots of new words and phrases came up this weekend at the cottage (and I’d forgotten my Scottish dictionary!)   Something that tastes delicious (ie Sticky Toffee Date Cake) is ‘just yum’ or ‘smells yum’.   The word ‘pleat’ is used instead of braid (for hair and friendship bracelets!) The children gave ‘cuddles’ instead of hugs. We were also introduced to Fox’s Bars, biscuits and cream covered in chocolate..just yum J

Missouri...

Kilomathon finish in Murrayfield Stadium!

The days are flying by! Last Wednesday I had dinner with my host counselor, Jackie.  She took me to Loch Lynd, a wonderful seafood restaurant in Leith, where we spent hours catching up while enjoying a great view of the port.  On Thursday, Caitlin, Nick, Stevie and Sammie cooked up some phenomenal TexMex for me and my roommates- Giulia’s first tacos EVER!!!  Friday, I had a fun night out in the city with a great crew of students from my program, before hitting the books allllll day Saturday.  Sunday morning, Caitlin and I ran in the Kilomathon Edinburgh, a 13.1 kilometer race starting at Ocean Terminal and ending in Murrayfield Rugby Stadium! It was raining on our way to the start line, then the sun came out just as the race began!  But around kilometer 10, we found ourselves fighting the elements again- strong wind and rain.  Good news:  it made us run faster, and we crossed the finish line in 1:07.  We went to the (famous) Snax Café which was the closest thing to a diner yet.  I had my first traditional Scottish breakfast, the ‘Biggest Breakfast’, which included a buttered nappie, fried eggs, black pudding, haggis, fried tomatoes, sausage links, baked beans, flat sausage, hasbrown, a tattie scone and bacon.  I think it is the last experience I care to have with black pudding, but I appreciate the valuable addition of baked beans to breakfast!

Sloppy Joes, namesake of their inventor-a cook from Iowa

Giulia’s friend Elena is visiting from Tuscany, so I cooked us an American favorite on Sunday night:  sloppy joes (appropriately sloppy). After dinner I BOUGHT TICKETS TO ITALY!!! Ever since I met Giulia and Susanna (and now Elena), I have been hearing stories about Italy and it was decided early on that a trip was essential.  I have a reading week/break from classes starting October 18^th so Italia here I come- first time on continental Europe! Giulia is returning home for her graduation on the 19th (which I’ll get to attend hopefully!) and then she and Elena are going to show me around their hometown, Empoli! We are going to Pisa and Siena, as well as some of their favorite little towns surrounding.  I. Can’t. Wait.

It has been a very full week of classes.  One of the neatest things about IIHD is that they frequently bring in guest lecturers to lead a module that falls under their area of expertise.  For example, the topic of our Global Health and Social Policy lecture yesterday was governance and we had a guest lecturer from the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine who has just returned from doing field research on government and health funding in Zambia. She had really fascinating experiences and research findings to share, and led a great group discussion. 

Compliments of Alysha Yoder

After another very full day of classes, my brain(fried) was challenged (by my roommates) to name all 50 US states (“of course I can”).  We all know how this one ended…2 hours, and an irrational hatred for the state of Missouri.

I found a GREAT pub, The Peartree, just a 10 minute walk from my house that shows American Football every Sunday! The downside:  they close at 1 AM, which taking into account the 5 hour time change means that I just get to see 1:00 and 4:25 games.  Luckily, the Keystone showdown is scheduled for 1 PM this Sunday.  HERE WE GO STEELERS!!

Scotland Bit:  Having just written about my ‘football’ team, I should point out that in Scotland (and the rest of Europe) football=soccer.  There is a long standing rivalry in Scotland between the Celtics and the Rangers, the two Glascow association football clubs. The rivalry is historically rooted in religion (Celtics supported by Catholics and Rangers by Protestants) or anscestry (Rangers supporters traditionally native Scots and Celtics fans the Irish-Scots).  The Rangers were liquidated in 2012, halting this historical competition yet it is still acknowledged as one of the greatest rivalries in football.